Laptop Keyboard

If the battery in your PowerBook or iBook is not charging, try the following solutions:

Reset your computer's power manager.
Make sure your AC adapter is properly inserted into your PowerBook or iBook. You have to press the plug all the way into the power adapter port for it to charge.

Connect your computer to its AC adapter, shut it down, then let it charge overnight. If it does not charge, it's likely you have a hardware fault in your computer, battery, or adapter, and you should have it repaired. For information on where you can have your computer repaired at Indiana University Bloomington, see Where can I get my computer hardware repaired?

Test your AC outlet. See if your battery will charge if you plug it into a different outlet or see if another electrical device will work in your original outlet.

Test your AC adapter. Try connecting a different AC adapter to your computer and see if it recharges.

Test your battery. Try using a different battery with your computer and see if it will recharge.

In some of the early PowerBooks, the battery will not charge unless the computer is turned on. If you have an old PowerBook and your battery isn't charging while it's turned off, power it on, put it to sleep, then see if it recharges.
If you go through all of these steps and your battery still won't charge, or you haven't narrowed down the source of the problem, you will probably need to have your computer repaired.

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nc929(Dell 630M keyboard)
pa3399u-2brs(pa3399u-2brs 4400mAh)
Dell Inspiron 6000(Dell Inspiron 6000 Series 6600mAh)
AD-4214N(Dell Samsung 14V 3A AC Adapter)
PA-10(Dell 19.5V 4.62A AC Adapter)
A1021(Apple 24V 2.65A AC Adapter)

1. Un-ergonomic Laptops - the design of laptops violates a basic ergonomic requirement for a computer, namely that the keyboard and screen are separated. In the early days of personal computing desktop devices integrated the screen and keyboard into a single unit, and this resulted in widespread complaints of musculoskeletal discomfort. By the late 1970's a number of ergonomics design guidelines were written and all called for the separation of screen and keyboard. The reason is simple - with a fixed design, if the keyboard is in an optimal position for the user, the screen isn't and if the screen is optimal the keyboard isn't. Consequently, laptops are excluded from current ergonomic design requirements because none of the designs satisfy this basic need. This means that you need to pay special attention to how you use your laptop because it can cause you problems.

2. Laptop User Type - how do you use your laptop? Are you an occasional user who works on your laptop for short periods of time or are you a full-time user with the laptop as your main computer? Occasional users will have less risk of problems than full-time users. All users should pay some attention to how they use their laptop, but full-time users may have more problems.

3. Laptop Posture - as indicated above, laptops violate basic ergonomic design requirements, so using a laptop is a tradeoff between poor neck/head posture and poor hand/wrist posture.
   -Occasional Users - because the neck/head position is determined by the actions of large muscles, you are better off sacrificing neck posture rather than wrist posture. For occasional use:
 find a chair that is comfortable and that you can sit back in
 positioning your laptop in your lap for the most neutral wrist posture that you can achieve
 angling the laptop screen so that you can see this with the least amount of neck deviation
   -Full-time Users - if you use your laptop at work as your main computer you should:
 position this on your desk/worksurface in front of you so that you can see the screen without bending your neck. This may require that you elevate the laptop off the desk surface using a stable support surface, such as a computer monitor pedestal.
 use a separate keyboard and mouse. You should be able to connect a keyboard and mouse directly to the back of the laptop or to a docking station
 use the keyboard on a negative-tilt keyboard tray to ensure a wrist neutral posture
 use the mouse on an adjustable position mouse platform
 follow the postural guidelines for working at a computer workstation

4. Laptop dimensions - many laptops offer large screens (15" plus) and can work as desktop replacements (giving the viewing area of a 17" monitor). However, think about where you will most use your laptop to help you choose the best size. The larger the screen the more difficult it will be to use this in mobile locations (e.g. airplane, car, train). There are a number of smaller notebook and ultraportable laptops on the market. Consider issues of screen size and screen resolution. A small screen (e.g.12.1") will be useful in mobile settings, but if the resolution is high (e.g. XGA - 1024 x 768) make sure that you can read the screen characters and can easily use the input device to point to areas on the screen. The smaller the laptop, the smaller the keyboard, so make sure that you can comfortably type on a keyboard that may be only 75% the size of a regular keyboard.

5. Laptop weight - if you are a mobile professional who will be frequently transporting your laptop think about the weight of the system. By the word 'system' I mean the weight of the laptop plus the required accessories (e.g. power supply, spare battery, external disk drive, zip drive, CD_RW etc.). Many lightweight portables can become as heavy as regular laptops when you add the weight of all of the components together. If your laptop components weighs 10lbs or more then you should certainly consider using a carry-on bag that you can pull along.  If you want a smaller bag and can comfortably carry your laptop consider a good shoulder bag design.

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z9100l(ASUS A3 A3000 battery 4400mAh)
PCMCIA CDROM(PCMCIA CDROM drive)
AD-4214N(Dell Samsung 14V 3A AC Adapter)
PA-12(Dell 19.5V 3.34A AC Adapter)
Dell Inspiron 6000(Dell Inspiron 6000 Series 6600mAh)

If you are looking for your first computer, know that sometimes, cheaper is not always the best. Talk to your friends or relatives who already own a computer and ask a lot of questions to help you avoid the common mistakes one make in choosing one’s first computer.

Start by determining what are you going to use your computer for: Are you going to be surfing the Internet, performing a lot of downloading, storing your photographs and video clips, to play graphic-intensive games or is it going to be used for mundane things like financial business or correspondence?

If you are going to surf the Internet, you need a fast processor. You need at least a Pentium III 500 and a fast modem, preferably with a broadband access to connect to the Internet. A 128MB SDRAM is plenty to surf the Internet and it is a plus if you can have at least a 8MB video card especially with all the different webpages being so graphic-rich nowadays.

If you are not going to use the computer for the Internet, you may skip the modem as it will be an unnecessary component in the computer. You can always add in that feature in the future when needs arise.

You will need a lot of processing power and tons of memory to play graphic-intensive games and you need special graphics cards to handle the video. The more advanced the processors, the better it is. Nowadays, the minimum memory (RAM) should be at least 256 SDRAM to play a decent game without lagging.

The system packages on offer (PC, monitor and scanner and printer in one package) are not all that they might seem and you may not even need them all. Sometimes, it is better for you to do away with the package and buy only the features that you need. If you don’t need a scanner and you don’t fancy a 17 inch monitor, there is no need to give in to the salesperson and take the package offering these features.

Lastly, the sound system you choose for your computer also depends on what you want out of the computer. Sound card and speaker systems are very important components which you should consider because the sound card is “the heart” of the sound system. The lower end is a basic 16-bit sound card, which gives you good sound with low price but if you are looking for better sound card, go for the 64-bit sound card from reputable manufacturers. For really good quality sound, you should be buying speaker systems with a subwoofer, which makes a lot of difference in the sound quality.

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PA-10(Dell 19.5V 4.62A AC Adapter)
PA-12(Dell 19.5V 3.34A AC Adapter)
Dell Inspiron 6000(Dell Inspiron 6000 Series 6600mAh)
pa3399u-2brs(pa3399u-2brs 4400mAh)
hstnn-105c(HP NC6100 battery 4400mAh )
Satellite A10 Series(Toshiba A10 keyboard)

Along with the development of the computer world, various brands of wireless keyboard and mice sets appear, you can purchase them from website or regular computer stores as well. Whatever your case may be, the directions for getting them ready for your computer are all basically the same. So, if you've bought a wireless set recently and you're having some trouble getting it to work, just follow these instructions and you'll be well on your way to wireless bliss!

First of all, wireless keyboards and mice aren't able to receive power from your computer like the wired ones do. Therefore, they need batteries to operate. And that's the first thing you need to do. Turn your keyboard over and you'll see a battery compartment. Take the cover off and insert the batteries according to the + - (plus, minus) compatibility. When you're done with the keyboard, you can go ahead and do the same thing for the mouse.

Once you've got the batteries in place, find a spot on your desk where you'd like to place both the keyboard and mouse. You won't have to move them around anymore, so make sure you find a place you'll be comfortable with. Now, while you're doing this, you'll also want to keep in mind where the wireless receiver will go. If you recall, a tip on that was in yesterday's newsletter.

The next thing you'll want to do is install the software that came along with your keyboard and mouse. Now, keep in mind that if you have Windows XP on your computer, you more than likely won't need to deal with the software at all. You can just plug the receiver into your computer and XP will automatically recognize the new hardware for you. On the other hand, if you're using an older version of Windows, you will need to install the software. To do so, just insert the disk into your CD ROM drive and follow along with the on-screen instructions. That's all you have to do!

The next step is connecting the wireless receiver to your computer, but again, if you have Windows XP, you've probably already done this. If not, it's likely that the wireless keyboard and mouse set you have works via a USB cable. So, all you have to do is find an open USB port on your computer and plug the receiver in. Once you plug it in, your computer will configure the keyboard and mouse so you can start to use them. You'll see a message that says something like "Your new hardware is now ready to use." (In XP, you'll get a pop up message that says "New Hardware Found"). Either way, that means you can now start using your new hardware!

Now that you've got everything set up, the next thing you'll want to do is test the keyboard and mouse, just to make sure everything's working properly. Go ahead and open some programs with your mouse and type some text in with your keyboard. Run through all the keys on your keyboard to make sure there are no problems with any of them and make sure all the buttons on your mouse work right.
Now, go on and enjoy your new wireless keyboard and mouse. Wireless really is the best way to go!

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PA-10(Dell 19.5V 4.62A AC Adapter)
PA-12(Dell 19.5V 3.34A AC Adapter)
Dell Inspiron 6000(Dell Inspiron 6000 Series 6600mAh)
pa3399u-2brs(pa3399u-2brs 4400mAh)
z9100l(ASUS A3 A3000 battery 4400mAh)
hstnn-105c(HP NC6100 battery 4400mAh )

 Installing your new power supply is exactly what we're going to cover today. I know most of you are probably at different stages in this process and that's fine. I mean, some of you may have already gone out and purchased a new power supply, some of you may still be researching which one you'd like to get and the rest of you may just be reading through this information for future reference. Either way, you can print this tip out or save it to your computer and that way, you'll have it whenever you need it. That's the beauty of this newsletter! Okay, so what do you say we get started with this? Let's go!

Once you have your sparkling new power supply, double check one more time that all the power around your computer is turned off. You don't want any power running through your system when trying to install a new piece of hardware. Otherwise, you may get the shock of your life! When you're ready, take the screws you saved when you removed your old power supply and use them to secure your new one into place. It should fit perfectly into the spot where your old one used to sit. When you're done with that, go ahead and follow these steps:

1.) First, find the ATX power connector on your new power supply and plug it into your motherboard's receptacle. Make sure it's plugged in tightly as well.

2.) Next, take the rest of the power connectors and plug them into your hard drive, CD ROM drive and any other components that may need to be hooked up to the power supply. This just depends on how many devices you have along with your computer. Just make sure they're all firmly plugged in and then move on to the next step.

3.) Once you've got everything hooked up, take a look around and make sure there are no unused power connectors just hanging there. If you just leave them there, they could eventually touch a fan or the heat sink and that could be bad news! If you don't need them for anything, you can tie them up with a rubber band and put them in a safe spot, away from any of the other components.

4.) Now, you can put your computer case back together! Just slide the panel back on and screw it into place.

5.) You can reconnect your monitor, keyboard, mouse, speakers, etc.

6.) Next, flip the On/Off switch on the back of your power supply to the On position.

7.) Finally, plug the power cable on the back of your power supply to the wall socket or your power strip.

That's it! You have now installed your very own power supply. I'm so proud of you! You can now start up your computer and experience what it's like to have a nice, quiet fan. No more awful noises coming from your computer. Oh yeah!

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PA-10(Dell 19.5V 4.62A AC Adapter)
PA-12(Dell 19.5V 3.34A AC Adapter)
Dell Inspiron 6000(Dell Inspiron 6000 Series 6600mAh)
pa3399u-2brs(pa3399u-2brs 4400mAh)
z9100l(ASUS A3 A3000 battery 4400mAh)
hstnn-105c(HP NC6100 battery 4400mAh )

Having a good laptop battery is one of the most important parts of owning a laptop, especially if you intend to take advantage of the laptop's portability; without a good battery, your laptop will need to be plugged into the wall much more frequently, limiting your ability to take it with you. Modern laptop batteries tend to last three to five hours, depending on the power needs of the computer and the programs the user runs. Few things are as frustrating as when your laptop battery suddenly won't charge fully or stops holding its charge for as long; when this happens, you'll probably want to buy a replacement battery.

There are many laptop battery manufacturers, and even more retailers to buy your laptop battery from. However, your biggest concern in purchasing a laptop battery will be to choose the battery that fits your computer. For this you will need to know the make and model number of your laptop; if you don't know this offhand or don't have the necessary paperwork, check the inside of your laptop's battery compartment while the computer is off and unplugged. There you should find the model number, along with some other information. You may also find the part number of your laptop battery, located on the casing of the battery itself.

When buying a laptop battery, you will probably only have one or two choices that fit your computer. Choose the battery with the longest life available for your computer. There are several different kinds of laptop batteries; because the technologies of each are very different, a laptop must be designed specifically for the type of battery it uses. Most laptops are only designed to use one type of battery technology.

The nickel cadmium battery, known as NiCad (pronounced "Nigh-Kad"), used to be the most common type of laptop battery. Nickel cadmium batteries couldn't hold very much power by today's standards, and could only be charged a limited number of times. NiCad batteries could easily be ruined by being left on the charger after they had reached full charge, or by being recharged before they were completely dead. The latter problem, called the "memory effect," meant that if you recharged your laptop battery before it had run completely down, it would remember the point at which you put it back on the charger, and only discharge that far the next time you used it.

The nickel metal hydride (NiMH) laptop battery was the next step up from NiCad. NiMH batteries could hold considerably more power than NiCad, but they still had something of a memory effect -- although it wasn't as pronounced. Lithium ion (Li-Ion) is the latest technology for laptop batteries; although Li-Ion batteries hold about the same amount of power as NiMH, they are considerably lighter and far superior. The Li-Ion laptop battery doesn't have a memory effect and lasts considerably longer than its predecessors. If your laptop supports multiple types of batteries, and the Li-Ion is one of them, then you should choose the Li-Ion as the best type of battery available for your laptop.

Regardless of which type you have, it's important to properly care for your laptop battery, in order to get as much life out of it as possible. "Conditioning," which means fully discharging and then fully charging the battery, should be done at least every few weeks, as it maintains the full capacity of the laptop battery. Some authorities claim that this is not necessary with Li-Ion batteries, while others maintain that it's a good idea to condition all laptop batteries regularly, rather than simply leaving them plugged into the wall at all times. Your laptop battery should never be stored in an area that drops below 50ºF (10ºC) or rises above 95ºF (35ºC); this means that your laptop should not be left in the car or in a storage area that is not climate controlled. Also, for extended storage of six months or more, the laptop battery should be discharged to 50% capacity and removed from the computer; a battery stored for an extended period of time at full capacity may lose the ability to charge fully, while a battery stored in a fully discharged state may never be able to charge again at all.

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 Here are some helpful cleaning tips and guidelines:  

           
     Unplug or turn off your LCD screen or device and closely examine the condition of the screen.

Take notice of any smudges or areas to be cleaned.

Use a Microfiber Cloth to remove any obvious dust and gently brush off any dirt particulars.

Although you can clean any LCD screen with a 50/50 solution of distilled water/isopropyl alcohol, using an old cotton T-shirt or handkerchief, it is recommended that you acquire the proper cleaning solutions and cloths to clean your LCDs. Many of these LCD screens are very expensive items, proper cleaning kits, should be used to clean and keep your LCD displays in a crisp clear pristine condition.

Never spray any cleaning solutions directly onto the screen, spray it into the your cleaning cloth.

Very, very gently wipe the screen in a circular motion. Do not press hard on the cloth. Let the cleaning solution do its job.

Don't press hard or touch the screen with your fingers or you may leave oily prints and smears.

Don't leave any liquid on the screen, remove all excess moisture as it may damage your screen.

Let the LCD screen dry thoroughly before you switch it back on.

For hard to remove stains or ink marks you may have to repeat this procedure several times. Don't apply hard pressure, remember you can also purchase special cleaners for heavy ink marks and the like.

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Even though the prices of laptop are increasingly lower with more and more newer models in the market, the purchase of a laptop is still a fairly major purchase for most people. For first time buyers who may have decided it’s time to upgrade from a desktop PC to a portable PC, i.e. laptop, check out these factors before you make your purchase:

1.      Price Range. A new laptop can range between RM1,500 to RM10,000, depending on the specifications and features. A few years ago, it was almost impossible to find one under RM2,000. Nowadays, there are many under that price range with standard features.
Standard laptops or regular laptops are usually the most economical for the most reasonable price. It weighs between 2.7kg to 3.7kg and offer a full range of benefits. Due to their popularity among consumers, manufacturers and retailers usually offer discounts and promotions for standard laptops. If you are unsure of what specific functions or needs that you may have or require from a laptop, going for the standard laptop is the safest investment. With the major credit cards offering flexible repayment method for laptop purchases, ask and take advantage of the zero per cent installment repayment for your laptop purchase.

2.      Size. The heaviest laptops are classified as the “extra large” laptop, weighing in between 3.7 to 5kg, with an at least 17 inches screen. The keyboard is much larger than standard laptops for those who found the standard laptop’s keypad too small to their liking. However, these laptops normally costs more and their extra weight make a lot of difference, considering you have to carry it all day. As for lighter laptops, a notebook is basically a regular laptop but is slightly less heavy, weighing in between 1.75kg-2.7kg. While it is heavier than the smaller ultralight which weighs less than 1.8kg, it offers more options and flexibility by allowing the user to plug a CD drive, floppy disk or extra battery at the combo bay, where you may access the features that you need without having the need to make room for those that aren’t needed. The plug and unplug interchangeability of the notebook makes it a good choice among users who need to access a lot of features yet do not want to lug around a heavy laptop.
For those who travel a lot, buying an ultralight is the ideal choice. However, ultralights are so small that there is no room for a network card or internal CD drive. You may have to bring an external CD drive and port replicator should you wish to use these features. An ultralight is also more on the higher price range.

3.      Hard Drive. Before you decide on the size of the hard drive in your laptop purchase, ask yourself if your laptop will be your primary computer or will it supplement your existing desktop system. If it will be your primary computer, you should hunt for a bigger hard drive, with a disk space of 60GB or more. If not, a 30GB to 40GB disk space is sufficient. However, it is always better to err on the size of too big, just in case you run out of disk space in the long run.

4.      Memory. You need to look at the ways in which you intent to use your laptop in order to determine the right amount of system memory, or RAM needed. If you only need your laptop to perform the usual tasks of emailing, typing on word processing, spreadsheets, etc. then a standard RAM of 256MB should be enough, which is a common configuration on most laptops, hence you probably won’t need to spend more for more RAM. However, for storing digital photographs and videos or other multimedia contents, you should equip your laptop with as much RAM as it can accommodate. You should ask how much of RAM your laptop can hold as you may need to upgrade your RAM in the future.

5.      Network Connectivity. Nowadays, it is a must to stay connected to the Internet as the world moves towards the digital era. Ask about the network connectivity provided by your laptop. Ideally, you should be connected to the Internet, the corporate network, a wireless network, a home network and to an online service, which means that buying a laptop that includes built-in features to connect to them all is the best option.

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Have you made the switch from a desktop PC to a laptop? Several people have and although they may be easier to carry around and travel with, they still need to be cleaned, don't they?

Laptops aren't as easy to open up and clean as desktops are, but it still can be done. To get started, just make sure your computer is turned off and unplugged. You should also remove the laptop battery just for some extra safety.

Laptop Case

Now, we're going to start with cleaning the outer case of your laptop so you can keep it looking new and fresh. Use a damp cotton cloth to clean the exterior of the laptop. It is recommended that you just use water, but if there is something on the case that cannot be cleaned with water, it is suitable to use rubbing alcohol. Do not use any household cleaners though.

Case Openings

Debris such as dirt, dust and hair can get into the case openings of the laptop and make it hard for the air it needs to pass through. This can cause the heat of the laptop to increase, which can cause later problems like random reboots. We definitely want to combat all of that, don't we? So, look for any of the openings that help cool air come in through the laptop and let hot air out. These are usually located on the back, the sides or even on the bottom of the laptop. The easiest way to clean these out is to use a cotton swab or compressed air.

If you use compressed air, you want to be careful that you don't spray directly at the fans that may be in the openings. It's easy to cause them to over spin, which can cause permanent damage. Before you use the air, place something in between the fan blades, such as a toothpick.

Laptop Keyboard

The keys on a laptop keyboard are different from a standard keyboard and they usually cannot be removed. So, to clean this, use the same damp cotton cloth you used to clean the exterior of your laptop. Just wipe the cloth over the keys and some of the dust and dirt particles will be removed. You can also use compressed air to get some of the debris out from in and around the keys.

Laptop Touchpad (Mouse)

It's a very good idea to clean your laptop's touchpad every once in awhile. It can help your laptop to look new, as well as, improve the quality of the motion and response of the touchpad. You can use the same damp cloth to clean this one too. Just run the cloth over the touchpad area and make sure you squeeze in around the corners to catch any debris that may be sitting there.

LCD Screen

Lots of things can fog up your laptop screen (like dirt, dust, fingerprints, etc.) and it's such a good idea to clean all of that off so your screen doesn't look like it just went through a whirlwind of yuckiness! An LCD screen is not like a regular desktop monitor, so it requires some special cleaning.

First of all, do not spray any liquids directly onto the screen. Doing this may cause some distortions on your screen. Also, do not use a paper towel to clean off the screen, because that could cause some scratching. Instead, use a soft cotton cloth. Try using a dry one at first and if that doesn't get everything off, you can put a little rubbing alcohol on the cloth and remove any other smudges that remain. Rubbing alcohol is used to clean the LCD screens before they leave the factory and shipped out, so it is safe to use.

Internal Components

This isn't the easiest task to perform, but with all of the debris that can get caught inside, it's important to do. If too much builds up, it can prohibit your laptop from running properly and smoothly.

I know this may have been the part you've been waiting on, but unfortunately, all laptops are very different and it's difficult to know what each one would need for cleaning. The best thing to do if you think your laptop needs special cleaning care is to take it to a repair center. They are professionals and they will be able to tell you exactly what would need to be done. It would be nice if we could do this step on our own, but with all the money you spend on your laptop and with all of the special uses you have for it, it's best to maintain that by letting a professional help you clean the inside components. You wouldn't want to mess anything up internally and permanently.

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When traveling with a computer, protect it from shock, heat, moisture, radiation, and theft. Special hard-shell shipping cases are advertised for most Apple products. These cases can protect computer products from environmental abuse. In addition, they often do not look like computer cases, and usually escape the notice of thieves.

X-rays and other magnetic radiation associated with X-ray machines only pose a slight potential danger. Most airports X-ray all luggage. If the risk in losing software or data is too high, back the files stored on your computer's hard disk.

Due to concern about computers and floppy disks going through security scanners at airports, the American Society for Testing and Materials (ASTM) conducted a study on X-ray induced damage to memory devices, including audio and video tapes and floppy disks. They found that the devices usually have enough shielding to protect the media. The study found that the magnetic field was actually strongest around the scanner's monitor. They taped a disk to the monitor for several hours without damage. A committee member suggested that it would take at least 1000 million passes through the machine before any damage would be evident.

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Toshiba holds a great reputation for building strong, reliable and fast business portable computers.

Toshiba holds a great reputation for building strong, reliable and fast business portable computers. Nowadays, Toshiba focuses not only on the manufacturing of business portable computers but also on the production of laptops (portable computers) oriented towards other types of usage. With a whole arsenal of laptop models under the common name of the Satellite series, Toshiba is making a dynamic move towards providing you with laptops that will fulfill your needs, whatever they might be. In this article you will be assisted towards making the right choice when it comes to getting a Toshiba laptop but what you first need to do is to think and decide what you want to mainly use your laptop for. To begin with, if you are an average computer user, you need a laptop and your budget is limited then Toshiba has something great to offer to you; it’s the Toshiba Satellite A60. This laptop (although it’s a pretty cheap one) is a very high quality product for someone who is not seeking for sophisticated, cutting-edge features. The A60 can be a great laptop if you intend to use it for e-book reading, emailing, internet surfing etc. Toshiba does a great job at keeping the cost to a minimal when it comes to laptops that require no specific hi-tech capabilities and this is something that always favors categories such as students. Following the A60, are the Satellite MX30 laptops. The MX30s come with a Centrino processor. Those laptops allow you to access wireless networks without having to plug in any extra hardware. Additionally, the Centrino processor consumes less energy and thus, your laptops battery duration is extended. If you have some extra money to spend then the MX30 provides many modification possibilities too. All in all, if you are continuously on the move then this is a very good laptop for you. Are you seeking for a brutally powerful laptop? Is a wide display a must for you when you are watching DVDs? Do you need high computational power in order to fulfill your computing needs? If so, then the Satellite A70 laptops are definitely something you should have a look at. Those laptops are really powerful and will give you a great experience if you are running a heavy application such as a video game or a graphics design program. The only drawback is that the battery life becomes really short if you push the laptop to its limits; but then again, everything comes at a cost. Finally, last on the list are the P30 laptops. Those laptops feature a 17” display which can provide a really great experience whatever you might be doing. Furthermore, P30s can come with a 100GB+ hard disc and they are equipped with graphic cards that can carry out brutal graphics processing tasks. The only drawback can be the relatively big size & weight as well as the price. Now that you hopefully have an idea of what Toshiba makes available on the market you will hopefully be able to do the correct choice for yourself and not only!

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Over 75 million Nickel Cadmium (NiCd) batteries were sold in the US during the year 2000. Market predictions indicate that the demand of NiCd batteries will rise six percent per year until 2003. The demand for other chemistries such as Nickel Metal Hydride (NiMH) and Lithium Ion (Li‑ion) is increasing at a more rapid pace. Where will the mountains of batteries go when spent? The answer is recycling.

The lead acid battery has led the way in recycling. The automotive industry should be given credit in organizing ways to dispose of old car batteries. In the USA, 98 percent of all lead acid batteries are recycled. Compared to aluminum cans (65 percent), newspaper (59 percent) and glass bottles (37 percent), lead acid batteries are reclaimed very efficiently, due in part to legislation.

Only one in six households in North America recycle small rechargeable batteries. Homeowners have the lowest return ratios, but this should improve once more recycling repositories become available and better environmental awareness is emphasized.

The NiCd battery is one of the more hazardous batteries in terms of disposal. If used in landfills, the cadmium will eventually dissolve itself and the toxic substance will seep into the water supply, causing serious health problems. Our oceans are already beginning to show traces of cadmium (along with aspirin, penicillin and antidepressants) but the source of the contamination is unknown. Under no circumstances can batteries be incinerated as this can cause them to explode.

Although NiMH batteries are considered environmentally friendly, this chemistry is also being recycled. The main derivative is nickel, which is considered semi-toxic. NiMH also contains an electrolyte that, in large amounts, is hazardous to the environment.

If no disposal service is available in an area, individual NiMH batteries can be discarded with other household wastes. If ten or more batteries are accumulated, the user should consider disposing the batteries in a secure waste landfill.

Lithium (metal) batteries contain no toxic metals, however, there is the possibility of fire if metallic lithium is exposed to moisture while the cells are corroding. Most lithium batteries are non-rechargeable and are used by defense organizations. Cameras and other commercial products also use primary lithium batteries. For proper disposal, these batteries must be fully discharged in order to consume all metallic lithium content. Li‑ion batteries (rechargeable), on the other hand, do not contain metallic lithium and the disposal problem does not exist. Most lithium systems contain toxic and flammable electrolyte, however.

In 1994, the Rechargeable Battery Recycling Corporation (RBRC) was founded to promote the recycling of rechargeable batteries in North America. RBRC is a non-profit organization that collects batteries from consumers and businesses and sends them to Inmetco and Toxco for recycling. Inmetco specializes in recycling NiCd, but also accepts NiMH and lead-based batteries. Toxco, focuses on lithium metal and Li‑ion system. Currently only intended to recycle NiCd batteries, RBRC will expand the program to include also NiMH, Li‑ion and SLA batteries.

Programs to recycle spent batteries have been in place in Europe and Asia for many years. Sony and Sumitomo Metal in Japan have developed a technology to recycle cobalt and other precious metals from Li‑ion batteries. The rest of Asia is progressing at a slower rate. Some movements in recycling spent batteries are starting in Taiwan and China, but no significant infrastructure exists.

Battery recycling plants require batteries to be sorted according to chemistries. Some sorting is done prior to the battery arriving at the recycling plants. NiCd, NiMH, Li‑ion and lead acid are often placed in designated boxes at the collection point. Sorting batteries must be done manually, an operation that adds to the cost of recycling.

If a steady stream of sorted batteries were available at no charge, recycling would be feasible with little cost to the user. The logistics of collection, transportation and labor to sort the batteries make recycling expensive.

The recycling process starts by removing the combustible material, such as plastics and insulation using a gas fired thermal oxidizer. Gases from the thermal oxidizer are sent to the plant’s scrubber where they are neutralized to remove pollutants. The process leaves the clean, naked cells, which contain valuable metal content.

The cells are then chopped into small pieces, which are heated until the metal liquefies. Non-metallic substances are burned off; leaving a black slag on top that is removed with a slag arm. The different alloys settle according to their weights and are skimmed off like cream from raw milk.

Cadmium is relatively light and vaporizes easily at high temperatures. In a process that appears like a pan boiling over, a fan blows the cadmium vapor into a large tube, which is cooled with water mist. This causes the vapors to condense. A 99.95 percent purity level of cadmium can be achieved using this method.

Some recyclers do not separate the metals on site but pour the liquid metals directly into what the industry refers to as ‘pigs’ (65 pounds) or ‘hogs’ (2000 pounds). The pigs and hogs are then shipped to metal recovery plants. Here, the material is used to produce nickel, chromium and iron re-melt alloy for the manufacturing of stainless steel and other high end products.

Current battery recycling methods requires a high amount of energy. It takes six to ten times the amount of energy to reclaim metals from recycled batteries than it would through other means. A new process is being explored, which may be more energy and cost effective. One method is dissolving the batteries with a reagent solution. The spent reagent is recycled without forming any atmospheric, liquid or solid wastes.

Who pays for the recycling of batteries in bulk? Participating countries impose their own rules in making recycling feasible. In North America, some recycling plants bill on weight. The rates vary according to chemistry. Systems that yield high metal retrieval rates are priced lower than those that produce less valuable metals.

The highest recycling fees apply to NiCd and Li‑ion batteries because the demand for cadmium is low and Li‑ion batteries contain little retrievable metal. The recycling cost of alkaline is 33 percent lower than that of NiCd and Li‑ion because the alkaline cell contains iron. The NiMH battery yields the best return. Recycling NiMH produces enough nickel to pay for the process.

Not all countries base the cost of recycling on the battery chemistry; some put it on tonnage alone. The average cost of recycling batteries is $1,000 to $2,000US per ton. Europe hopes to achieve a cost per ton of $300US. Ideally, this would include transportation, however, moving the goods is expected to double the overall cost. For this reason, Europe is setting up several smaller processing locations in strategic geographic locations.

Significant subsidies are sill required from manufacturers, agencies and governments to support the battery recycling programs. These subsidies are in the form of a tax added to each manufactured cell. RBRC is financed by such a scheme.

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In this section we evaluate the strengths and limitations of various battery chemistries, beginning with the nickel. Each battery system offers unique advantages but none provides a fully satisfactory solution. With the increased selection of battery chemistries available today, better choices can be made to address specific battery needs. A careful evaluation of each battery's attribute is important. Because of similarities, both nickel-cadmium and nickel-metal hydride are covered in this paper.

The nickel-cadmium battery

Swedish Waldmar Jungner invented the nickel-cadmium battery in 1899. At that time, the materials were expensive compared to other battery types available and its use was limited to special applications. In 1932, the active materials were deposited inside a porous nickel-plated electrode and in 1947 research began on a sealed nickel-cadmium battery.

Rather than venting, the internal gases generated during charge were recombined. These advances led to the modern sealed nickel-cadmium battery, which is in use today.

Nickel-cadmium prefers fast charge to slow charge and pulse charge to DC charge. It is a strong and silent worker; hard labor poses little problem. In fact, nickel-cadmium is the only battery type that performs well under rigorous working conditions. All other chemistries prefer a shallow discharge and moderate load currents.

Nickel-cadmium does not like to be pampered by sitting in chargers for days and being used only occasionally for brief periods. A periodic full discharge is so important that, if omitted, large crystals will form on the cell plates (also referred to as memory) and the nickel-cadmium will gradually lose its performance.

Among rechargeable batteries, nickel-cadmium remains a popular choice for two-way radios, emergency medical equipment and power tools. There is shift towards batteries with higher energy densities and less toxic metals but alternative chemistries cannot always match the superior durability and low cost of nickel-cadmium.

Here is a summary of the advantages and limitations of nickel-cadmium batteries.

Advantages

Fast and simple charge, even after prolonged storage.

High number of charge/discharge cycles - if properly maintained, nickel-cadmium provides over 1000 charge/discharge cycles.

Good load performance - nickel-cadmium allows recharging at low temperatures.

Long shelf life - five-year storage is possible. Some priming prior to use will be required.

Simple storage and transportation - most airfreight companies accept nickel-cadmium without special conditions.

Good low temperature performance.

Forgiving if abused - nickel-cadmium is one of the most rugged rechargeable batteries.

Economically priced - nickel-cadmium is lowest in terms of cost per cycle.

Available in a wide range of sizes and performance options - most nickel-cadmium cells are cylindrical.
Limitations

Relatively low energy density.

Memory effect - nickel-cadmium must periodically be exercised (discharge/charge) to prevent memory.

Environmentally unfriendly - nickel-cadmium contains toxic metals. Some countries restrict its use.

Relatively high self-discharge - needs recharging after storage
The nickel-metal-hydride battery

Research on the nickel-metal-hydride system started in the 1970s as a means of storing hydrogen for the nickel hydrogen battery. Today, nickel hydrogen is used mainly for satellite applications. nickel hydrogen batteries are bulky, require high-pressure steel canisters and cost thousands of dollars per cell.

In the early experimental days of nickel-metal hydride, the metal hydride alloys were unstable in the cell environment and the desired performance characteristics could not be achieved. As a result, the development of nickel-metal hydride slowed down. New hydride alloys were developed in the 1980s that were stable enough for use in a cell. Since then, nickel-metal hydride has steadily improved.

The success of nickel-metal hydride has been driven by high energy density and the use of environmentally friendly metals. The modern nickel-metal hydride offers up to 40% higher energy density compared to the standard nickel-cadmium. There is potential for yet higher capacities, but not without some negative side effects.

Nickel-metal hydride is less durable than nickel-cadmium. Cycling under heavy load and storage at high temperature reduces the service life. nickel-metal hydride suffers from high self-discharge, which is higher than that of nickel-cadmium.

Nickel-metal hydride has been replacing nickel-cadmium in markets such as wireless communications and mobile computing. Experts agree that nickel-metal hydride has greatly improved over the years, but limitations remain. Most shortcomings are native to the nickel-based technology and are shared with nickel-cadmium. It is widely accepted that nickel-metal hydride is an interim step to lithium-based battery technology.

Here is a summary of the advantages and limitations of nickel-metal hydride batteries.

Advantages


30-40% higher capacity than standard nickel-cadmium. Nickel-metal-hydride has potential for yet higher energy densities.

Less prone to memory than nickel-cadmium - fewer exercise cycles are required.

Simple storage and transportation - transport is not subject to regulatory control.

Environmentally friendly - contains only mild toxins; profitable for recycling.
Limitations

Limited service life - the performance starts to deteriorate after 200-300 cycles if repeatedly deeply cycled.

Relatively short storage of three years. Cool temperature and a partial charge slows aging.

Limited discharge current - although nickel-metal-hydride is capable of delivering high discharge currents, heavy load reduces the battery's cycle life.

More complex charge algorithm needed - nickel-metal-hydride generates more heat during charge and requires slightly longer charge times than nickel-cadmium. Trickle charge settings are critical because the battery cannot absorb overcharge.

High self-discharge - typically 50% higher than nickel-cadmium.

Performance degrades if stored at elevated temperatures - nickel-metal-hydride should be stored in a cool place at 40% state-of-charge.

High maintenance - nickel-metal hydride requires regular full discharge to prevent crystalline formation. nickel-cadmium should be exercised once a month, nickel-metal-hydride once in every 3 months.

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Maybe I am the only person to travel, but I am always dismayed when my electronic equipment is only meant to be used in a limited number of locations. Early Macintoshes had a Universal Power Supply and standard DIN plugs... plug them in, and they just work. Ostensibly as a cost-saving measure, Apple began manufacturing computers with power supplies that did not function from 93-250VAC and 50-60Hz anymore.

At least the Powerbooks kept their universal power supplies and the Airport Extreme base station now have them also. However, "Graphite" and the later "Snow" base stations have localized power adapters that can be hard to find or expensive. When I moved to France for a year, I had a choice between buying a local power supply from Apple or to get a universal one.

So, I set out to find myself a universal power supply that would fit my "Graphite" base station. What I discovered was that finding a power supply for the "Graphite" is not easy. For one, it employs a P6 power plug that is relatively uncommon. Secondly, universal power supplies with the right amperage capacity are either expensive or hard to find.

The Graphite base station calls for a power supply that supplies 12VDC at up to 1.25 Amperes, i.e. 15W (multiply the volts x amps to get the power rating in watts). I am unsure what kind of power the Snow base station draws, so look at the underside to see how many amperes it calls for. Then buy a power supply with at least that power rating or more.

The easy way:

Winston Weinmann found a universal power supply in France (Part number 9935) by a Hong Kong company called Amplus that could create voltages from 5-24VDC and that included the right power supply tip to fit his ABS. Similar power supplies can be purchased in the USA from their US distributor Velleman USA. I only reviewed their web-site for a short while but either the PSSMV3,PSSMV4U or the PSSMV5U power supply should do the trick. All have the right wattage rating (i.e. above 15W) and voltage settings to satisfy an ABS.

For other areas in the globe, go to the parent company website in Hong Kong and then request some info on distributors in your area. The only thing to be careful about is polarity (positive in the center) and voltage (12VDC) for the Graphite or Silver ABS. Furthermore, if you know of any additional universal power supplies that fit without modifications, please send me an e-mail so I can also highlight them here.

The harder way:

I finally secured a 12VDC, 15W power supply for about $21 at Allied Electronics for the "Graphite" base station (see the catalog page). The Allied SKU is 653-0310.

Unfortunately, the included plug did not fit so I had to make some permanent modifications. Please remember: Such modifications void any warranty you may have had. Unless you're diligent about checking polarities, wiring, etc. you may fry your ABS. Furthermore, if all you're after is replacing your ABS power supply (because you lost the old one, for example) you may be better off simply buying a used one from Base Station Rescue for $15 (US Only - Thank you, Tom Maggio!).

Please proceed with caution and with the full knowledge that you may harm yourself and/or the ABS. This information is presented at your risk to follow.

Since the plug on the Power Supply did not fit the "Graphite" base station, I resorted to cutting off the plugs and splicing the "Graphite" power plug onto the universal power supply.

To follow along, you'll have to scrounge some ingredients: Two 22AWG butt connectors, a proper crimper, a multimeter, some heat shrink tubing and a means to heat it evenly. Most of the stuff can be found at Radio Shack. Below is a picture of the 12VDC CUI power supply I purchased after I cut its tail off.

Now you'll have to pull out your trusty multimeter to determine the polarity of the wiring. By default, the positive conductor has either a stripe or plain writing on it while the ground remains bare. By selecting the DC voltage setting you should be able to determine polarity pretty quickly.

In the picture above, the conductor with the long stripes on it is positive. The following picture shows the Apple power supply cord. Here, the positive conductor was the one with the writing on it. Note how faint it is!

Using the multimeter, ensure polarity as per the diagram on the bottom of your base station. Next, slip the heat shrink tubing over the wiring. Try to chose a size that can barely accomodate the heat butt connectors. Then crimp the butt connectors in place.

Before you apply the heat shrink tubing, re-test the plug with the multimeter to ensure proper polarity. The center pin of the plug should be positive with the exterior acting as ground, as per the diagram on the underside of your ABS.

Now slip the heat shrink insulation over the two butt connectors.

Last but not least, shrink the insulation in place. This insulation will keep out moisture and act as a strain relief as well. Once it has been shrunk down, it'll surround the wiring and the connectors.

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